Sunday mornings are not to be rushed! However this November Sunday, the weather was improving from a rather misty start at Wetheral Cottages and it looked set to be a bright afternoon. November is also the time of year when the light starts to fade - so a short walk is perhaps all that light will allow.

Picking up a guide book “Walking in Cumbria’s Eden Valley” by Vivienne Crow, I thumbed through and found a walk “Quarry Beck and Ridgewood”. Reading through the description, it appeared our best option was to start the walk halfway, as the most appropriate tearoom was at the start of the suggested route.

Parking was found, adjacent to the lovely open green on the outskirts of Brampton. The signpost here, guides you up to the ridge (this is the only significant bit of uphill). The name is obvious as from the ridge great views towards the Southern Scottish Mountains, but on this occasion the day had not improved to give the perfect picture but it was impressive enough to want to return. The ridge path soon veered into a wood with a wide woodland path lined with huge beech trees. The path along the ridge was also dotted with differing benches, just great for entertaining the youngsters – see who can run on and find the next seat first!

The path then dropped away from the ridge down onto a quiet road which eventually joined the Brampton to Lanercost Road, the latter being our destination and teashop. A good clean airy tearoom with an excellent selection of calorie replacing cakes – another plus point for repeating this walk. (in fact we have enjoyed this walk again with friends the Soup was good and warming as it was a cooler January day).

Lanercost Priory founded in 1169 by Robert deVaux, is open to the public April to October. As with most iconic properties in this part of Cumbria, they have transferred from Scottish to English ownership and back often in turbulent times. Records show the first raid on Lanercost took place in 1280, when the priory had just been visited by King Edward 1st. But Lanercost had its day when Edward returned in 1306 a dying king and ruled the Kingdom from Lanercost. Lanercost effectively became the capital of England as Edward summoned Parliament to Carlisle and brought all the seals of the crown with him.

In 1346 the Priory suffered a damaging attack by King David II of Scotland who desecrated the monastic and priory buildings as well as the land around. Sir Thomas Dacre was granted the site during the Dissolution of the monasteries (1536) who converted part of the site into his residence, a great deal of restoration has taken place over recent years also.

The return route was by the side of Quarry Beck, which runs through a secluded gorge, which at a more appropriate time of year will be alive with birds, nesting or feeding their young. Joining the road again a footpath along the side soon becomes evident and the route follows this back to Brampton.

The route was extremely dry, considering the recent weather, so a walk well considering, perhaps, after a night of heavy rain, even the path adjacent to Quarry Beck was not muddy at all – though we did find a few muddy bits on our second expedition.

Sorry no images for this blog but can’t wait to return on a clear day as I look forward to enjoying what I think must be great views from the Ridge.

Howtown to Glenridding - a lakeshore walk.

Taking the Ullswater Steamer from Glenridding to Howtown then walking along the lake shore back to Glenridding is one of those walks that have become an annual pilgrimage. We have had a couple of mornings that were rather frosty but by and large October has been very mild and the forecast for our allotted day was good.

The 1225 sailing was our aim and the journey down the side of the Ullswater to Glenridding seemed almost trafficless, so we had plenty of time to park before boarding the Lady Wakefield to Howtown. Being October the lake was not very busy in fact there seemed to be very little wind for the yachts.

Once at Howtown we sat on the lake edge and had a snack before staring the 6.5 mile walk back to Glenridding. The first short section of the walk has some great views up the lake to Pooley Bridge, Dunmallard and to the right Heughscar Fell. Despite being a lake-shore walk the route is constantly going up and down but rounding the first corner we look across the lake to Gowbarrow (another walk I must do again) and Aira Force hidden behind the trees.

Were back to shore level again now and heading for Sandwick, a hamlet of a farm and a few houses, tucked away on the southern shore of Ullswater (the lake lies roughly east to west). Streams always seem to make good resting places and little further on where the path crosses Scalehow Beck a number of people were already enjoying the babbling stream. Our lunch box was already empty so no need to stop here.

The path now meanders up and down through a wooded area, though still close to the lake, the wood consists of predominantly Birch with Elder and Rowan (see the story of the Rowan bough on our blog) as well as a few Junipers. Coming out of the wood you find yourself at the top of a rocky crag, above Silver Bay, with great views across the lake to Sheffield Pike and Glenridding. The walkers in front of us deviate off to Silver Point to enjoy another perspective of the lake but a cup of tea is what we need.

A mile further on we reach Side Farm and from here the path turns right through the farmyard towards Patterdale. As we enter the Farmyard the welcome sight of a small teashop is just what we need and of course a farmhouse sized piece of cake (I didn’t waste a crumb – delicious). It’s all level going now and just another mile back to the Ullswater Steamer Car Park. As we passed the Patterdale Mountain Rescue HQ the absence of a few of their vehicles probably meant they were out assisting someone. The local news next day confirmed they had assisted a 7 year old boy who had been hit by a falling rock on Helvellyn, he was flown to Hospital in a Helicopter – so I hope he has not been put off enjoying the Lake District Fells in the future. For further details of the missions Patterdale Mountain Rescue make and support them, use this link to visit their website.

Lowther Castle and Gardens near Penrith

Lowther Castle and Gardens now in the early stages of a re-development programme is about 8 miles from Wetheral Cottages and being somewhat inquisitive as to what was happening there, it proved to be quite a rewarding hike around the gardens.

The castle and gardens have lain neglected for about 70 years and whilst tracks have been forged through the 130 acres of grounds there is much still to be done, before it could be classified as a garden. However the walk around the grounds gave glimpses of past glories, with many features still remaining but somewhat overgrown. A summer house stands on the western edge of the grounds with marvellous views across the river Lowther to Helton and beyond. What a great testament to the craftsmen who built it and the quality of wood used. As if this structure has remained un-maintained for many years it is still in great shape today.

Lowther Castle was of course once the home of the Lonsdale family, who played a large roll in the development of Cumbria and especially West Cumbria having interests in mining and land ownership. Without going into a full family history of the Lonsdale family here, the Lowther Estates at their prime gained much wealth from coal mining and it was said you could travel from the West Cumbrian coast to the east coast without going off land owned by the Lowther Estates.

The Estate is not that large today, but the most dashing of the previous Earls was Hugh, the Third Earl. Hugh was a great horseman and sportsman as well as a devotee of the turf, winning the St, Ledger. The Lonsdale Belt presented to Boxing recalls his interest in the sport. The Third Earl was also the first president of the Automobile Association and it was the bright yellow livery of the Lonsdale family which inspired their distinctive yellow, still used today.

So with all their wealth it is not surprising that many famous names are recorded as working at Lowther Castle – “Capability Brown” was obviously connected with the gardens. The castle ruins that stand today were originally built about 1816 but abandoned about 70 years ago. During the Second World War the castle and some of the farm land nearby were used to test a secret tank weapon. In 1946 the contents of the castle were sold off.

One piece of Lowther Folk Lore not in the gardens is an old oak tree on the edge of the park, and the reason this old oak tree is still standing and even has its branches supported is: that suppression has it that, should the tree or a branch fall to the ground, then so will the Earl of Lonsdale at that time.

The Lowther Estates have hosted many Sheep Dog Trials in the past but this year they are hosting the World Sheep Dog Trials September 15th, to 18th,.

An afternoon on Heughscar Fell

The camera has not portrayed the great day we have enjoyed today. Rained before we rose but the day has just improved and improved, so this afternoon we enjoyed a walk from Askham up on to Heughscar Fell (follow this link for a longer variation of this walk).
It was really warm today even on the top, in fact Linda took her jacket off (normally a hothouse plant). I have enjoyed the walk to the top of Heughscar Fell many times with many alternative routes, it's always interesting.
Askham is about 8 miles from Wetheral Cottages and at the top end of the village there is ample parking. It's a picturesque village Askham with two good pubs: The Queens Head and The Punch Bowl and a gallery displaying some of the “Fine Art Landscape Photography” by Tommy Martin I was also pleased to see on a previous visit to the gallery a display by the Askham based potter Stuart Broadhurst.
A really enjoyable afternoon can only be finished off with an ice cream and of course the way back just happened to pass Abbott’s Lodge Jersey Ice Cream Farm. Lovely Lovely (had a double of course)!!

The Peace Of The Sheep Country

No refreshment stop on this walk I’m afraid, but it’s such a peaceful ramble that it is well worth the effort to carry the flask and make your own stops. The walk starts about 7 miles from Wetheral Cottages.

Park the car in Renwick, there are some quite good places near the Church, on the main street. Set off up the road signed Outhwaite but as you climb the hill reflect on the fact that this peaceful village was once a hive of mining activity – coal was the product, and the production was such, that the village had a coaching inn, as well as a number of pubs and blacksmiths to service the horse draw transport. All this gradually drew to a halt as better and cheaper coal was able to be brought in to the area with the opening of the railway in about 1880.

Peaceful though the church on your left may now be, but in 1733 legend has it that the church had become in a poor state of repair, so the villagers club together to offer their skills and make the necessary repairs. Suddenly whilst rebuilding they were frightened by a monster, which had the body of a cockerel and the tail of a dragon, it flew up from the ruins. The Cocktice** scattered the villagers except one, John Tallentire, who armed himself with a Rowan bough (Google Rowan Tree and you’ll find many fascinating facts) with which he killed the monster. For his good deed he was given his house and exempted from tithes for himself and his descendants.

Walk on up the hill passing the road to Outhwaite a small display board describes the area “The North Pennines” further up the hill, further on we took a style to out right then walked across the fields to Outhwaite, through the farmyard, then following the footpath signs, which eventually brought us to a small river, where just before crossing the bridge, the river bank affords an ideal location for lightening the flask and biscuit box.

Many of the fields around Renwick and Outhwaite will be stocked with Swaledale ewes with Mule lambs at foot. The east side of Cumbria is renowned for breeding the Mule or Greyfaced sheep, these sheep are across between the Swaldale or Herdwick Ewe and the Bluefaced Leicester Ram (a Tup in these parts) and thousands of them are sold to go to all parts of Britain. Lazonby, Penrith and Kirby Stephen marts are particularly famous for the large numbers they sell each autumn. The Greyfaced ewe is a good mothering sheep with plenty of milk for 2 lambs and when crossed with one of the meatier breeds (Suffolk, Texel, Charollais, Beltex etc) produces an excellent lamb for the butcher. This area is also renowned for the quality of its sheep dogs and this year sees the World Sheepdog Trials being held on the Lowther Estates just outside Penrith in September.

Comfortably refreshed the longest uphill part of the walk takes us to Haresceugh Castle Farm, turn left at the road, up the hill to Selah Bridge.You are bound to encounter some mule lambs as joining the road, many of these fields belong to Haresceugh Castle Farm a well known breeder of Mule lambs. Those who watched the BBC programme "Lambing Live" saw the Marston familys farm near Kirby Stephen where they rear Mule lambs as well as Bluefaced Leicester and Beltex sheep.

Great views of the Lake District Mountains from Selah Bridge, where we turn right making a descent along a lovely old lane that leads down to the Unthank to Renwick Road. If it weren’t for the cars descending the A686 behind us, you could envisage yourself in rural England 150 years ago walking this old road.

On reaching the road turn right and follow the road until you arrive at a T junction. Turn left over the bridge, the woods around here are full of Red Squirrels often to be seen sitting on the bridge. Follow the road back into Renwick and you car.

The area is more fully described in a booklet “Domain of the Cockatrice” produced by the East Cumbria Countryside Project, which inspired this walk - distance about 4 miles.

** A fictitious creature the Cockatrice is believed to be hatched from a cock's egg (probably a hen that crowed) by a serpent. Reportedly an ugly creature with a crested head, large glittering eyes, a barbed tongue and a dragon’s tail. The Cockatrice is mentioned in several places in the bible. It is probably derived from the hermaphroditic fowl - a crowing hen - which does occur in nature. In 1474 a Basel cock was sentenced to death for laying an egg but I remember my father killing a hen because it crowed as he considered it very bad luck to keep it.

It opened with a splash

This exceptionally early summer weather has brought an great surge of enjoyment to those using Lazonby’s Open-air Swimming Pool just 2 miles from Wetheral Holiday Cottages. Situated in a sheltered part of Lazonby the pool gives hours of fun to all the family. There is a grassed picnic and games area, so with the pool-side shop on hand, serving all the treats you need, Lazonby Swimming Pool is Five Star fun. There are two pools: one for toddlers and another for swimmers, do check on opening times on the Lazonby Swimming Pool website





My grandson and I have spent many hours there and with a Life-guard on hand, I feel there's safety for him and me. You are always made to feel very welcome at the Pool, the village has a good community spirit and have just recently constructed a new childrens play area near the Pool

Spring Sun in Lowther Park

A lovely warm sunny day again on Sunday at Wetheral Cottages, so where fits the bill for today? We haven’t to be too late back as our grandson is with us and he is to return home. Lowther Park seems a good starting point and with the magnificence of the slightly dilapidated castle at one end, the park looked very medieval as we parked up near the church.

We set off across the park admiring the avenue (of presently lifeless) trees leading up to the castle’s entrance, to join the River Lowther and followed this to the Gatehouse at Eamont Bridge. This was probably once the road used to the castle and after leaving the park it is lined with trees. There are many others using this route today but I’m sure had we been here at a quieter time, there would be plenty of Deer to see. However the Red Squirrels seem to be enjoying a break in their hibernation or are they out and about for the rest of the year?

I had always believed that squirrels do hibernate but something made me use the power of Google to query this. It appears they have reduced activity but do not actually go to sleep as in true hibernation.

The growing numbers of Squirrel around the Eden Valley must be in part due to the hard work put in by the local conservation groups. There is something much more appealing about the Red than the Grey, so it is hoped the good control measures used to keep the grey at bay can continue.

We stopped at the point where the track and the river are crossed by the railway line a marvellous structure of six spans of sandstone construction, probably quarried from just beside the Lowther Viaduct. The railway is about 100 feet above the river and whilst it is not the longest bridge, locally, its height always impresses. If only travellers on the West Coast Mainline could appreciate what is under them.

Passing the Gatehouse at Eamont Bridge our goal is off to the right, Brougham Hall and nestled within its walls Fusion Café, for a great cup of coffee and a large slice of cake. Brougham Hall once considered the “Windsor of the North” as King George VI visited it frequently with is father; the recent film “The Kings Speech” of course reflecting part of his life. Well worth looking round Brougham Hall and especially the Church or even walking the additional mile to Brougham Castle.

The route was now across the fields to Clifton the site of the last battle on English soil, skirting Clifton Hall Farm, more ruins, this time Clifton Hall a Pele Tower. Crossing the M6 the route again goes under the railway line, this time the bridge is a modern concrete construction, spanning the road also, purely, it seems, designed out of practicality or purpose, rather than a pleasing structure as with the Lowther Viaduct passed under earlier.

Heading back towards Lowther Park the fields are alive with lambs gambolling along the hedges and banks whilst the mothers enjoy a peaceful afternoon in the sun. Pheasants and Partridge seem to be flying around in pairs ready for another population explosion. More Squirrels as we near the Park but there ahead are two Red Deer enjoying their afternoon tea at the edge of the field but now their gone; leaping the hedge with ease back into the wood.

Dropping down into Lowther Park to return to the car, you can just make out part of the famous gardens that are currently being restored and are due to open again towards the end of April. There are plans to restore the castle by turning it into a hotel, it will be a stunning location if all goes well.

The 15th, to 18th of September sees the Lowther Estates as the venue for the 2011 International Sheepdog Trials (One Man and His Dog) and already some accommodation at Wetheral Cottages is reserved for those visiting this international event.

To returm home we have to pass the Abbotts Lodge Ice Cream Farm so we just had to turn in!!